Thursday, October 25, 2012

Maloney & Porcelli (2): Rib-eye. No questions asked.

Maloney & Porcelli (October 2012)
37 E 50th St
New York, NY


Sameer Rib eye (medium rare), crackling pork shank - No doubt about.  A well earned 3 cow.  The beauty of the rib eye was not diluted by lesser steaks.  The pork shank was an afterthought for me even though it was moist and fucking delicious.  But the rib eye.  I am glazing over daydreaming about it, quite possibly the best rib eye I've ever had.  Maybe I'm getting more gushy or emotional as I get older, but I savored every bite.  The flavor brought me back to simpler times.  The crust and fat distribution were top notch.  Side note that we got the same waitress, I am one step closer to regular status some place.  SOTM is making a name for itself.

In short, if I had to marry a steak and have babies with it, it would be this one.

Jeff:  - [shared] -  I need to stop showing up late to these dinners.  I pop in just when the cow pieces arrive at the table.  There's no pre-amble, no Act I, no fumbling conversational foreplay.  What's everyone been up to? I'm so lost.  Right, the food. I know we come to this establishment for the steak, but goddamn that pork shank is one helluva distraction.  The pork shank is a, in short, a visceral delight.  At first sight, a craggy monster; but as savory as it is textured.  I posit the crackling pork shank is one of the best non-steak dishes we've eaten on our tour de forced eating, easily besting the "famous" mutton chop at Kean's, though may not as perfect as the burger at Minetta tavern.  The steak dishes remain flavored, aged, and cooked perfectly.

At our first visit, I gave Maloney Porcelli two cows out of sheer skepticism  from such a small sample size.  This follow-up cements in my mind their level of quality, and a full cow is restored.  I don't know what it is about this place, but this is my surprise steakhouse of the year.  If expectations are factored in, this is the best steakhouse we went to in 2012.